I weigh the puppies twice a day to make sure they are all gaining. I observe them to see if there are any weak nursers in the bunch. They are all checked for cleft pallets or anything that would prevent them from nursing effectively. I make sure mom is stimulating them to urinate and defecate. When I take mom out, I check her over, and make sure she doesn't have any mammary glands that are becoming swollen, hard, red or hot (signs of mastitis).

 

At Duncan Chase, we have adopted the Bio Sensor method to start our new pups off. Below is an article about the Bio Sensor, or Super Dog program.

 

Methods of Stimulation

 The U.S. Military in their canine program developed a method that still serves as a guide to what works. In an effort to improve the performance of dogs used for military purposes, a program called "Bio Sensor" was developed. Later, it became known to the public as the "Super Dog" Program. Based on years of research, the military learned that early neurological stimulation exercises could have important and lasting effects. Their studies confirmed that there are specific time periods early in life when neurological stimulation has optimum results. The first period involves a window of time that begins at the third day of life and lasts until the sixteenth day. It is believed that because this interval of time is a period of rapid neurological growth and development, and therefore is of great importance to the individual.

The "Bio Sensor" program was also concerned with early neurological stimulation in order to give the dog a superior advantage. Its development utilized five exercises, which were designed to stimulate the neurological system. Each workout involved handling puppies once each day. The workouts required handling them one at a time while performing a series of five exercises. Listed in nor order of preference the handler starts with one put and stimulates it using each of the five exercises. The handler completes the series from beginning to end before starting with the next pup. The handling of each pup once per day involves the following exercises:

1. Tactile stimulation - holding the pup in one hand, the handler gently stimulates (tickles) the pup between the toes on any one foot using a Q-tip. It is not necessary to see that the pup is feeling the tickle. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds.

2. Head held erect - using both hands, the pup is held perpendicular to the ground, (straight up), so that its head is directly above its tail. This is an upwards position. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds

3. Head pointed down - holding the pup firmly with both hands the head is reversed and is pointed downward so that it is pointing towards the ground. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds

4. Supine position - hold the pup so that its back is resting in the palm of both hands with its muzzle facing the ceiling. The pup while on its back is allowed to sleep or struggle. Time of stimulation 3-5 seconds.

5. Thermal stimulation - use a damp towel that has been cooled in a refrigerator for at least five minutes. Place the pup on the towel, feet down. Do not restrain it from moving. Time of stimulation 3-5 seconds.


Tactile stimulation


Head held erect


Head pointed down


Supine position


Thermal stimulation

These five exercises will produce neurological stimulations, none of which naturally occur during this early period of life. Experience shows that sometimes pups will resist these exercises, others will appear unconcerned. In either case a caution is offered to those who plan to use them. Do not repeat them more than once per day and do not extend the time beyond that recommended for each exercise. Over stimulation of the neurological system can have adverse and detrimental results.

These exercises impact the neurological system by kicking it into action earlier than would be normally expected. The result being an increased capacity that later will help to make the difference in its performance. Those who play with their pups and routinely handle them should continue to do so because the neurological exercises are not substitutions for routine handling, play socialization or bonding.

 Five benefits have been observed in canines that were exposed to the Bio Sensor stimulation exercises:

  • Improved cardio vascular performance (heart rate)
  • Stronger heart beats,
  • Stronger adrenal glands,
  • More tolerance to stress
  • Greater resistance to disease

 In tests of learning, stimulated pups were found to be more active and were more exploratory than their non- stimulated littermates over which they were dominant in competitive situations.

 Development of Puppies by Week

Week One
(Days 1-7)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

+ 90% of time spent sleeping
+ 10% eating
+ Susceptible to heat/cold
+ Instinctive reflexes: crawl, seek warmth, nurse
+ They can right themselves if placed upside down
+ Needs stimulation for urination/defecation
+ Rapid development of central nervous system
+ Need constant care from bitch
+ Rectal temperatures 94-97 degrees Farenheit
+ Pups may lose 10% of weight after birth, but should start gaining again
+ Weight should double by end of week

HEALTHY PUPPIES:

  • Look and feel vibrant, vigorous and strong
  • Twitch while sleeping (activated sleep)
  • Nurse with great energy
  • Have tongues that are pink and warm
  • Have skin that returns quickly to normal when it is pinched
  • Have tummies that feel full, but not bloated

Puppies are born with eyes and ears closed. Eyes and ears open around day 10. The reason a healthy puppy twitches is to strengthen its muscles.

SICK PUPPIES

  • Look and feel unthrifty, limp and flaccid
  • Stop twitching in their sleep
  • Rattle when breathing
  • Cease nursing, show weak attempts at nursing or cry while nursing
  • Have a tongue that is not pink colored and is cool to the touch (sometimes looks ruffled)
  • Cry most of the time
  • Double up in cramps
  • Have skin that stays creased when pinched
  • Have diarrhea and/or vomiting

Week 2 (Days 8 - 12)

DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

As they go on to week two, they are still in what is called the Neonatal Period, which extends from birth to 12 days. During this period the puppies development is limited to two functions; nursing to obtain nutrition and staying warm. A puppy is totally dependant upon his mother to meet all of his physical needs. He needs to be stimulated to urinate and deficate. His sense of taste, touch, smell and his ability to hear is limited. The puppies environment affects him only as much as it touches him.

The pups are fun to watch, but they don't do too much! They sleep. They wake up, cry or squeak until they find Mom. They eat. Then they sleep again.

Week Three (Days 15-21)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

+ Teeth begin to erupt
+ Puppies stand up and start walking
+ Begin to lap liquids
+ Defecate/urinate without stimulation
+ Start becoming aware of environment
+ Start playing with littermates
+ Develop sense of smell
+ Puppies will start to discriminate as to where to relieve themselves

Puppy Toddlers (3 - 6 Weeks) During the Toddler period, puppies emerge on their own from the litter. They venture into the surrounding environment. This emergence from the litter is a gradual and continual learning experience. During this stage of development puppies learn basic behavioral patterns specific to dogs. While playing, they practice different body postures, learning what the postures mean and how they affect their mother and litter mates. They learn what it is like to bite and be bitten, what barking and other vocalizations mean and how to make and use them to establish social relationships with other dogs. Such learning and activity tempers their own biting and vocalizing. From the age of five weeks, the mother teaches her puppies basic manners. They learn to be submissive to her leadership and what behaviors are acceptable. If necessary, she growls, snarls, or snaps at them as a form of discipline. When weaning the litter, for instance, the mother will discipline her puppies so that they will leave her alone. Because the mother disciplines them in a way that they clearly understand, after a few repetitions, the puppies will respond to a mere glare from her. If a pup has not learned to accept leadership (and discipline) in its early interactions with dogs, its training will be more difficult. Puppies that are removed from the nest too early tend to be nervous, more prone to barking and biting, and less responsive to discipline. Often they are aggressive with other dogs. Generally speaking, a puppy taken away from it's mother and litter mates before seven weeks of age, may not realize its full potential as a dog and companion. To maximize the mental and psychological development of puppies, they must remain in the nest with their mother and litter mates until seven weeks of age.

Week Four (Days 22-28)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

+ Begin to eat food
+ Begin to bark, wag tails, bite, paw, bare teeth, growl and chase
+ Use legs well
+ Tire easily
+ Depth perception starts

Week Five (Days 29-35)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

+ Group activities and sexual play will begin
+ Dominance order starts
+ Rapid growth/development

Week Six (Days 36-42)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

 + Growth and development continue

Puppy Toddlers (3 - 6 Weeks) During the Toddler period, puppies emerge on their own from the litter. They venture into the surrounding environment. This emergence from the litter is a gradual and continual learning experience. During this stage of development puppies learn basic behavioral patterns specific to dogs. While playing, they practice different body postures, learning what the postures mean and how they affect their mother and litter mates. They learn what it is like to bite and be bitten, what barking and other vocalizations mean and how to make and use them to establish social relationships with other dogs. Such learning and activity tempers their own biting and vocalizing. From the age of five weeks, the mother teaches her puppies basic manners. They learn to be submissive to her leadership and what behaviors are acceptable. If necessary, she growls, snarls, or snaps at them as a form of discipline. When weaning the litter, for instance, the mother will discipline her puppies so that they will leave her alone. Because the mother disciplines them in a way that they clearly understand, after a few repetitions, the puppies will respond to a mere glare from her. If a pup has not learned to accept leadership (and discipline) in its early interactions with dogs, its training will be more difficult. Puppies that are removed from the nest too early tend to be nervous, more prone to barking and biting, and less responsive to discipline. Often they are aggressive with other dogs. Generally speaking, a puppy taken away from it's mother and litter mates before seven weeks of age, may not realize its full potential as a dog and companion. To maximize the mental and psychological development of puppies, they must remain in the nest with their mother and litter mates until seven weeks of age.

Toys should be readily available to puppies at all times, providing them with appropriate stimulation and play. By rotating the toys available to a puppy at a given time, they remain interesting and fun. Praising puppies when they are playing with their toys lets them know that we are pleased and that this is an appropriate activity.

Toys are a great way to occupy puppies when we can not. But for puppies, playing games with their human friends is "where it's at". Games like fetch, keepaway, hide and seek, tug or come-tag not only foster bonding but are stimulating and educational as well. Puppies' owners are often afraid to play such games for fear of teaching over-excitability or other bad habits. The games themselves do NOT teach puppies to be uncontrollable, ill mannered or aggressive. The lack of established rules and guidance does. Just like our games, puppy play must have guidelines and structure that is absolute. Lack of structure and guidelines or inconsistency will contribute to confusion and frustration. This in turn will contribute to misbehavior. By saying "Let's play" just prior to initiating games and stating "Enough" just as we end a session or take a break, we can help our puppies to understand that they must wait until we initiate play and must also honor that we end it. Also, by stating "Enough" and ending play momentarily when puppies bite or jump or become too boisterous, we can clearly relay that these behaviors are inappropriate in play.

Toys We Recommend

Active Toys:

  • Very hard rubber toys, like Nylabone-type products and Kong-type products. These are available in a variety of shapes and sizes and are fun for chewing and for carrying around.
  • "Rope" toys that are usually available in a "bone" shape with knotted ends.
  • Tennis balls make great dog toys, but keep an eye out for any that could be chewed through and discard them.

Distraction Toys:
  • Kong-type toys, especially when filled with broken-up treats or, even better, a mixture of broken-up treats and peanut butter. The right size Kong can keep a puppy or dog busy for hours. Only by chewing diligently can your dog access the treats, and then only in small bits - very rewarding! Double-check with your veterinarian about whether or not you should give peanut butter to your dog.
  • "Busy-box" toys are large rubber cubes with hiding places for treats. Only by moving the cube around with his nose, mouth and paws, can your dog access the goodies.

Comfort Toys:
  • Soft stuffed toys are good for several purposes, but aren’t appropriate for all dogs. For some dogs, the stuffed toy should be small enough to carry around. For dogs that want to shake or "kill" the toy, it should be the size that "prey" would be for that size dog (mouse-size, rabbit-size or duck-size).
  • Dirty laundry, like an old t-shirt, pillowcase, towel or blanket, can be very comforting to a dog, especially if it smells like you! Be forewarned that the item could be destroyed by industrious fluffing, carrying and nosing.

Get The Most Out Of Toys!
  • Rotate your dog’s toys weekly by making only four or five toys available at a time. Keep a variety of types easily accessible. If your dog has a huge favorite, like a soft "baby," you should probably leave it out all the time, or risk the wrath of your dog!
  • Provide toys that offer a variety of uses - at least one toy to carry, one to "kill", one to roll and one to "baby."
  • "Hide and Seek" is a fun game for dogs to play. "Found" toys are often much more attractive than a toy which is blatantly introduced. Making an interactive game out of finding toys or treats is a good "rainy-day" activity for your dog, using up energy without the need for a lot of space.
  • Many of your dog’s toys should be interactive. Interactive play is very important for your dog because he needs active "people time." By focusing on a specific task, like repeatedly returning a ball, Kong or Frisbee, or playing "hide-and-seek" with treats or toys, your dog can expel pent-up mental and physical energy in a limited amount of time and space. This greatly reduces stress due to confinement, isolation and/or boredom. For young, high-energy and untrained dogs, interactive play also offers an opportunity for socialization and helps them learn about appropriate and inappropriate behavior with people and with other animals, like jumping up or being mouthy.

Week Seven (Days 43-49)
DEVELOPMENT OF THE PUPPIES

+ Total hearing/visual capacity
+ Will investigate anything
+ Can't respond yet to name

Canine Socialization Period (21 - 49 Days):
Interacting with his mother and littermates, the pup learns various canine behaviors. He is now aware of the differences between canine and human societies.

Human Socialization Period (7 to 12 Weeks):
The pup has the brain wave of and adult dog. The best time for going to a new home. He now has the ability to learn respect, simple behavioral responses: sit, stay, come. Housebreaking begins. He now learns by association. The permanent man/dog bonding begins, and he is able to accept gentle discipline and establish confidence.

THE RULES OF SEVENS

By the time a puppy is 7 weeks old (end of seven weeks) it should have:

1) BEEN ON 7 different surfaces:
Newspaper~Wood~Carpet~Concrete~Vinyl~ Grass~Dirt~Gravel~ Wood Chips Etc.

2) PLAYED WITH 7 different types of objects:
Big Balls ~Small Balls ~ Soft Fabric Toys ~Fuzzy Balls ~Squeaky Toys~ Metal Items ~Wooden Items ~Paper/Cardboard Items ~Milk/Soda Jugs Etc.

3) BEEN IN 7 different locations:
Front Yard ~Back Yard~ Basement~ Kitchen~ Car~ Garage~ Laundry Room~ Bathroom~ Crate ~Kennel Etc.

4) BEEN EXPOSED to 7 challenges:
Climbed a box ~Climbed off a box~ Go thru a tunnel~ Climbed up steps ~Climbed down steps~ Climbed over obstacles~ Played hide & seek~ Go in & out doorway with a step Etc.

5) EATEN FROM 7 different containers:
Metal~ Plastic~ Cardboard~ Paper~ China~ Pie Plate~ Frying pan Etc.

6) EATEN IN 7 different locations:
Crate ~Yard~ Kitchen~ Basement~ Laundry room ~Bathroom ~X-pen Etc.

7) MET AND PLAYED WITH 7 new people: including children & the elderly


 

Puppy Socialization Check List

 

Week 1-2 – The Neo Natal Period

_ Cuddle and talk to each puppy at least three times a day

_ Keep mom happy and relaxed

 

Week 3 – The Transitional Period

_ Increased individual cuddle/talk time with each puppy

_ Introduce a few toys

_ Place towels under puppy blankets or create humps in blanket to create obstacles

 

Week 4 – The Awareness Period

_ First trip outside the puppy room

_ Introduce more and varied toys

_ Play with puppies as a group

_ First trip outside, weather permitting

_ Introduce puppy gruel and use this to begin teaching them to come when called

_ Gently bounce and swing puppies while handling

_ Take each puppy away from litter for a few minutes

 

Weeks 5 - 6- The Awareness Period continues.

_ Each day, introduce something new

o Flashlight

o Blow bubbles

o Flicker room lights.

o A different flooring surface

o Different rooms or different places in the yard

o Create a mini-obstacle course

_ Lots of play time

_ Lots of outside time, weather permitting

_ Bring visitors to play with puppies

_ Feed puppies in different area

 

Weeks 7-8 - The Human Socialization Period.

_ Give each puppy group and individual time with visitors

_ Bring children to visit if possible

_ Gently brush each puppy

_ First bath

_ Introduce crates

_ Begin separating puppies into groups of 2-3

 

 

Duncan Chase uses the Puppy Aptitude Test developed by Jack and Wendy Volhard  (see www.
volhard.com).  The Puppy Aptitude Test is an evaluation of obedience and aptitude and
provides a general picture of a pup’s intelligence, spirit, and willingness to work with people. The following is an excerpt of the Volhard test.

 

A PERSONALITY PROFILE FOR YOUR DOG

    Your dog was born with a set of instinctive behaviors that he inherited from his parents. These behaviors can be grouped into three broad categories – prey, pack and defense – called drives. How many behaviors a dog has in each drive, will determine his temperament, his personality and how he perceives the world. 

BEHAVIORS IN EACH DRIVE

    Prey drive  includes those inherited behaviors associated with hunting, killing prey and eating. It is activated by motion, sound and smell.  Behaviors associated with prey drive are seeing, hearing, scenting, tracking, stalking, chasing anything that moves, pouncing, high-pitched barking, jumping up, biting, killing, pulling down, shaking, tearing and ripping apart, carrying, eating, digging and burying.
        You see these behaviors when your dog is chasing the cat, or gets excited and barks in a high pitched tone of voice as the cat runs up a tree.  Your dog may also shake and rip apart soft toys and bury dog biscuits in the couch.
    Pack drive  consists of behaviors associated with being part of a pack, including reprodutive behaviors. Dogs are pack animals, which means adhering to a social hierarchy governed by rules of behavior to assure order.  In the case of a dog, the ability to be part of a group translates itself into a willingness to work with us as part of a team.
     Pack drive is stimulated by rank order in the social hierarchy.  Physical contact, playing and behaviors associated with social interaction with other dogs, as well as  reproductive behaviors, such as licking, mounting, washing ears and all courting gestures, are part of pack drive.
    A dog with many of these behaviors is the one that follows you around the house, is happiest when with you, loves to be petted and groomed, and likes to work with you. Such a dog may be unhappy when left alone for long periods.
    Defense drive is governed by the instincts for survival and self preservation, and consists of both fight and flight behaviors. Defense drive is more complex than prey and pack drive, because the same stimulus that can make a dog aggressive (fight), can also elicit avoidance (flight) behaviors, especially in the young dog. 
    Fight behaviors tend not to be fully developed until the dog is over two years of age, although tendencies towards these behaviors will be seen at an earlier age. Examples of fight behaviors are a dog that "stands tall," stares at other dogs and likes to "strut his stuff."  He will stand his  ground with his ears and whiskers pointed forward and his tail held up. He will go toward unfamiliar objects or situations, and his hackles will go up from his shoulders to his neck. He may guard his food, toys or territory from other dogs or people, and may dislike being petted or groomed. Such a dog will lie in front of doorways or cupboards, making his owner walk around him.
    Flight behaviors demonstrate that the dog is unsure. Examples are hackles that go up the full length of the body, not just at the neck, hiding or running  away from new situations, a dislike of being touched by strangers or a general lack of confidence. Young dogs tend to exhibit more flight behaviors than older dogs. Freezing (not going forward or backward) is generally considered inhibited flight behavior.

YOUR DOG’S PERSONALITY
    To help you understand your dog’s behaviors, Jack and Wendy Volhard cataloged ten behaviors in each drive and created the Canine Personality Profile. The ten behaviors chosen are the ones that most closely represent the strengths of the dog in each of the drives. The Profile does not pretend to include all behaviors seen in a dog. 
    The results of the Profile will give you a good starting point for understanding why your dog does what he does. This understanding will help you make his training a positive and enjoyable experience for both of you.
    When completing the Profile, keep in mind that it was devised for a house dog or pet with an enriched environment and not a dog tied out or kept solely in a kennel; such dogs have fewer opportunities to express as many behaviors as a house dog. Answers should indicate those behaviors your dog would exhibit if he had not already been trained to do otherwise. For example, did he jump on people or the counter to steal food, before he was trained not to do so?  Other behaviors, in turn, are only seen in a training context, such as during training with distractions.
    When completing the Profile, assign the following point values to your answers:
Almost always – 7-10;
Sometimes – 4-6;
Hardly ever – 0-3.
   
You may not have had the chance to observe all of these behaviors, in which case you leave the answer blank.

When presented with the opportunity, does your dog


1.    Sniff the ground or air?    _____
2.    Get along with other dogs?    _____
3.    Stand his ground or show curiosity in strange objects or sounds?    _____
4.    Run away from new situations?    _____
5.    Get excited by moving objects, such as bikes or squirrels?    _____
6.    Get along with people?    _____
7.    Like to play tug-of-war games to win?    _____
8.    Hide behind you when he feels he can’t cope?    _____
9.    Stalk cats, other dogs, or things in the grass?    _____
10.    Bark when left alone?    _____
11.    Bark or growl in a deep tone of voice?    _____
12.    Act fearfully in unfamiliar situations?    _____
13.    When excited, bark in a high-pitched voice?    _____
14.    Solicit petting, or like to snuggle with you?    _____
15.    Guard his territory?    _____
16.    Tremble or whine when unsure?    _____
17.    Pounce on his toys?    _____
18.    Like to be groomed?    _____
19.    Guard his food or toys?    _____
20.    Cower or turn upside down when reprimanded?    _____
21.    Shake and “kill” his toys?    _____
22.    Seek eye contact with you?    _____
23.    Dislike being petted?    _____
24.    Act reluctant to come close to you when called?    _____
25.    Steal food or garbage?    _____
26.    Follow you around like a shadow?    _____
27.    Guard his owner(s)?    _____
28.    Have difficulty standing still when groomed?    _____
29.    Like to carry things in his mouth?    _____
30.    Play a lot with other dogs?    _____
31.    Dislike being groomed or petted?    _____
32.    Cower or cringe when a stranger bends over him?    _____
33.    Wolf down his food?    _____
34.    Jump up to greet people?    _____
35.    Like to fight other dogs?    _____
36.    Urinate during greeting behavior?    _____
37.    Like to dig and/or bury things?    _____
38.    Show reproductive behaviors, such as mounting other dogs?    _____
39.    Get picked on by older dogs when he was a young dog?    _____
40.    Tend to bite when cornered?    _____

Scoring the Profile:

Prey        Pack        Fight        Flight

1.           2.           3.            4.         
  
5.          6.            7.            8.        
  
9.          10.          11.          12.       
  
13.        14.          15.          16.         

17.        18.          19.          20.         

21.        22.          23.          24.         

25.        25.          27.          28.         

29.        30.          31.          32.           

33.        34.          35.          36.        

37.        38.           39.         40.        


Total Prey              Total Pack              Total Fight              Total Flight           

NOW WHAT THE SCORES MEAN?
    Not surprisingly, the results of the Profile tend to be breed specific. If your dog was bred to hunt or herd – think Labrador and Border Collie – chances are that he is highest in prey drive, followed by pack, fight somewhere below 50 and a few flight behaviors. If he was bred to guard or protect – think German Shepherd – his score for fight behaviors will probably be well above 50, perhaps a few flight behaviors, but still many prey and pack behaviors. A dog bred for drafting – think Bernese Mountain Dog – should be high in pack, low in fight and have few prey behaviors; you would not want him to chase after a cat with his little cart bouncing behind. If you have an All American, he will have the same mixture of behaviors, with the predominant number determined by his ancestry.
    The majority of dogs are high in prey, which only makes sense in light of the majority of the tasks they were bred to perform. Unfortunately, it is also the drive that is the most irritating to you, his owner, and the one that gets the dog into trouble. What does he do when you take him for a walk? Pull you here, there and everywhere, with his nose on the ground following various scents, or walk quietly at your side? When he spots a squirrel, does he set off in hot pursuit or ignore it? When you call him, does he come or keep going in the other direction?

NOW WHAT?
    Before you can use the results of the Profile, you first have to take a look at what you are trying to teach your dog, we are going to call him Felix, and which drive he has to be in to respond to a given command. 
    For most of the commands you want Felix to know, he needs to be in pack drive – walking on leash without pulling, sit and stay, go lie down and come when called. Responding to these commands requires him to be in pack drive, that is, doing something for you. You certainly don't want him to be in prey (chase), or defense drives (guard or flee).  All else being equal, a dog with many Pack behaviors (more than sixty) will have no difficulty with learning these exercises.  
    Prey drive behaviors, those required for retrieving and jumping, although not necessary for basic obedience commands, come in handy in the training of the dog that has few Pack behaviors. Through the use of a treat or toy, you can exploit prey behaviors to teach a pack exercise.     
    Theoretically, dogs do not need defense drive (fight) behaviors for basic training, but the absence of these behaviors has important ramifications.  It is pivotal and determines how the dog has to be trained. 
    The beauty of the drives theory, if used correctly, is that it gives you a tool to overcome areas where a dog is weak. For example, it can be used to teach a dog with few pack behaviors how to walk on a loose leash by using prey behaviors.  

BRINGING OUT DRIVES
    Following are the basic rules for bringing out drives: 
1. Prey drive is elicited by the use of motion -- hand signals (down or come) -- a high-pitched tone of voice, or an object of attraction (defined as anything the dog will actively work for, such as a stick, toy or food), chasing  or being chased, and leaning backward with your body. 
2. Pack drive is elicited by physical affection, verbal praise and smiling at the dog.  Grooming, and playing bring out Pack drive behaviors. 
3. Defense drive behavior is elicited by leaning over the dog, either from the front or the side, checking (a sharp tug on the leash) or a harsh tone of voice. 

SWITCHING DRIVES
    Felix can instantaneously switch himself from one drive to another.  Picture him playing with his favorite toy (Prey), when the doorbell rings.  He drops the toy and starts to bark (Defense).  You open the door and it is a neighbor whom Felix knows.  He goes to greet the visitor (Pack) and returns to play with his toy (Prey). 
    During training your task will be to figure out how to switch your dog from one drive into another.  For example, you are teaching Felix to walk on a loose leash in the yard when a squirrel scampers up a tree. Felix spots it, runs to the end of the leash, straining and barking excitedly in a high-pitched voice.  He is in full-blown Prey drive.  Now you have to get him back into Pack where he needs to be in order to walk at your side.  To get Felix from Prey into Pack, you first have to go through Defense, at least in the teaching process and until he has learned to do it on command. 
    The precise manner in which you get Felix back into Pack -- remember, you must go through Defense -- depends on the strength of his Defense drive.  If he has a large number of Defense (fight) behaviors, you can give her a crisp tug and release on the leash (check), which switches him out of Prey into Defense.  To get him into Pack, touch him gently on the top of the head, smile and tell him how clever he.  If he is low in Defense (fight) behaviors, a check may overpower him, and a voice communication, such as "Ah, ah" will be sufficient to put him into Defense, after which you put him into Pack drive. 
    For the dog that has few fight behaviors and a large number of flight behaviors, a check is also counter-productive.  Body postures, such as bending over the dog, or a deep tone of voice are usually enough to elicit Defense drive.  Your dog, by his response to your training -- cowering, rolling upside down, not wanting to come to you for the training session -- will show you when you overpower him, thereby making learning  difficult, if not impossible. 
   
THE BASIC RULES FOR SWITCHING:
1.    From Prey into Pack in the teaching process, you go through Defense.  How you put your dog into Defense will depend on the number of Defense (fight) behaviors he has.  As a general rule, the more Defense (fight) behaviors the dog has, the firmer the check needs to be. 
    As the dog learns, a barely audible voice communication or a slight change in body posture will suffice to encourage your dog to go from Prey through Defense into Pack drive.  Once Felix has learned what you want him to know, he switches himself. 
2.    From Defense into Pack by touching or smiling; and
3.    From Pack into Prey with an object (food) or motion. 
    Applying the concept of drives and learning which drive Felix has to be in and how to get him there will speed up your training process enormously.  You will no longer confuse Felix.  As you become aware of the impact your body posture and motions have on the drive he is in, your messages will be perfectly clear to your dog.   Your body language is congruent with what you are trying to teach.  Since Felix is an astute observer of body motions, after all, this is how dogs communicate with each other, he will understand exactly what you want.     

PRACTICAL APPLICATION
    By looking at your dog's profile, you will know which training techniques work best and are in harmony with your dog's drives.  You now have the tools to tailor your training program for your dog. 
    Defense (fight) - more than sixty, and Defense (flight) less than sixty.  Your dog will not be bothered too much by a firm hand. 
    Body posture is not critical, although incongruent postures on your part will slow down the training.  Tone of voice should be firm, but pleasant and non-threatening. 
    Defense(flight) – 40 or more more. Correct body posture and quiet, pleasant tone of voice are critical.  Avoid using a harsh tone of voice and any hovering, leaning over or toward your dog.  There is a premium on congruent body postures and gentle handling. 
    Prey - more than sixty.  Your dog will respond well to use of treats or a toy during the teaching phase.  May need a firm hand, depending on strength of Defense drive (fight), to suppress Prey drive when in high gear, such as when chasing a cat or spotting a squirrel.  Easily motivated, but also easily distracted by motion or moving objects. 
    Signals will mean more to this dog than verbal commands.  Premium on using body, hands and leash correctly so as not to confuse the dog. 
    Prey - less than sixty.  Your dog is probably not easily motivated by food or other objects, but is also not easily distracted by moving objects. 
    Pack - more than sixty.  Responds readily to praise and touch.  Your dog likes to be with you and will respond with little guidance. 
    Pack - less than sixty.  Start praying.  Felix probably does not care whether he is with you or not.  He likes to do his own thing and is not easily motivated.  Your only hope is to rely on Prey drive in training.  Usually breed specific for dogs bred to work independently of man. 
    Following are a  few examples of different profiles:
    Low prey, low pack, low defense – the dog will be difficult to motivate and probably does not require any training.  Needs extra patience in case training is attempted since there are few behaviors with which to work.  On the plus side, this dog is unlikely to get into trouble, will not disturb anyone, will make a good family pet and does not mind being left alone for considerable periods of time. 
    High prey, low pack, low defense – this dog will give the appearance of having an extremely short attention span, but is perfectly capable of concentrating on what he finds interesting.  Training will require the channeling of his energy to get him to do what you want.  You will need lots of patience because the dog will have to be taught mainly through prey drive.
    High in prey, low in pack, high in defense (fight) – this dog is independent and not easy to live with as a pet and companion.  Highly excitable by movement and may attack anything that comes within its range.  Does not care much about people or other dogs and will do well as a guard dog.  Pack exercises such as heeling need to be built up through prey.  A real challenge.
Important hint:   if Felix is high in defense (fight), you need to work especially dilligently on -- and frequently review --  your leadership exercises described in Chapter 1.  If your dog is high in prey, you also need to work on these exercises, not necessarily because your dog wants to become pack leader, but to control him around door ways and moving objects.  If your dog is high in both prey and fight, you may need professional help. 
     High prey, low pack, high defense (flight) – a dog that is easily startled and/or frightened.  He needs quiet and reassuring handling.  Not a good choice for children. 
    Low prey, high pack and low defense – this is a real charmer. He will follow you around all day and it is doubtful that he will get into trouble.  Likes to be with you and is not interested in chasing. 
    Medium (50-75) prey, pack and defense (fight) – a dog that is easy to train and motivate.  Mistakes on your part are not critical. 
        By now you have gathered that the easiest dogs are those that are balanced among all drives.  No matter what you do, the dog seems to be able to figure out you want.  If you are lucky enough to have a dog like that, take good care of him.  By applying the principles of drives, he will do well by you. 
   
SUMMARY
1) Prey drive is elicited by motion, sounds and odors. 
2) Pack drive is elicited by an inviting body posture, touching and a friendly voice. 
3) Defense drive is elicited by a threatening body posture, hitting and an unfriendly voice.
4) The dog can switch itself at will from one drive to another.
5) To switch the dog from prey into pack drive you must go through defense.
6) Your dog's profile tells you the correct way to train.

See also, Dog Training for Dummies, 2nd Edition (Wiley Publishing, 2005)
Interpreting the Puppy Aptitude Test Score

Scores of mostly 1       
A puppy that consistently scores a “1” in the temperament section of the test is an extremely
dominant, aggressive puppy that will naturally attempt to resist human leadership and requires
only the most experienced handlers.  This puppy is a poor choice for most individuals.

Scores of mostly 2      
This pup is dominant and self-assured.  He can be pushed into aggression; however will accept
human leadership that is firm, consistent, and knowledgeable.  This is not a dog for a tentative,
indecisive individual.  In the right hands, he has the potential to become a fine dog and will fit
into an adult household, provided the owners know what they are doing.  

Scores of mostly 3      
This pup is outgoing and friendly and will adjust well in situations in which he
receives regular guidance.  He has a flexible temperament that adapts well to
different types of environment, provided he is handled correctly.  This dog accepts
human leaders easily. Is best prospect for the average owner, adapts well to new
situations and generally good with children and elderly, although it may be inclined to
be active. Makes a good obedience prospect and usually has a common sense
approach to life.  

Scores of mostly 4       
A pup that scores a majority of 4’s is an easily controlled, adaptable puppy whose
submissive nature will make him continually look to his master for leadership.  This
pup is easy to train, reliable with kids, and, though he lacks a little self-confidence, he
makes a high quality family pet.  He is usually less outgoing than a pup scoring 3’s,
but his demeanor is gentle and affectionate.

Scores of mostly 5       
This pup is very submissive and lacking self-confidence.  He bonds very closely with his owner
and requires companionship and encouragement to bring him out of his shell.  If handled
incorrectly, this pup will grow up shy and fearful.  For this reason, he will do best in a
predictable, structured lifestyle with owners who are patient and not overly demanding, such as
an elderly couple.

Scores of mostly 6       
A puppy that scores 6 constantly is independent and uninterested in people.  He will mature into
a dog who is not very affectionate and will have a low need for human companionship.  In
general, it rare to see properly socialized pups test this way.
For most owners, a good companion dog will score in the 3 to 4 range.  Puppies scoring a
combination of 1’s and 2’s as well as 5's and 6's require experienced handlers who will be able
to draw the best aspects of their potential from them.  Our Jack Russell Terrier puppies
routinely fall within the 3-4 categories.  Because of this, we are confident that if you continue
the training and socialization routine that we have started, you will be pleased with your Bear
Creek Terrier's temperament.     

 
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